Our Last Day in Gwangju

It's a miracle of God, but somehow, Rob and I continue to slowly, but surely, lose weight, despite gorging on an incredible variety and quantity of good. In fact, Rob weighs less than he has in 13 years, and I'm down to where I was three years ago.

Not all the excess is of our own doing. We've had a number of official meals, and many others in the company of friends excited to show us why Gwangju is famous for both it's eating establishments and its southern hospitality. We've also hosted several meals to give thanks to those who have been so very kind to us. We love to eat, but normally, our diets are much more pared down, low fat, and high fibre.

Since it's our last full day in Gwangju, we pay a final visit to the Sang Dae dumpling stand. En route, we bump into Jeremy. This is fitting, because it's this fair-haired lad who greeted us in the Mini Mart in Hu Moon on our first day here. We will bump into him again before the day is out. Over the last five weeks, we've tried to get together, but he's busy preparing for a new job in Naju, about half an hour south of here. (It's the place where Rob and the temple crew visited the famed soup restaurant.)

For 4000 won, we munch on tender kimchi dumplings, pork dumpings, and pork buns. It pours rain while we sit on high-backed retro green and gold chesterfields, eyeing the bookshelves. Good thing that although we walked by, we went back for the 2000 won umbrella at a nearby store. Sensing the sky was about to burst, we chose a white one with pink polka dots, which naturally, will be the one Rob will carry.

This is the first time we've sat inside the restaurant as we favour the plastic stools at the outdoor shelf. Today, the young server seems insistent that we seek the comfort of the air-conditioned library, so we do. After lunch we peruse the extensive book shelves. They're filled, primarily, with manga, the very popular, highly stylized Japanese cartoons. Series titles include, "Happy Makeup," which seems to be about young women who like cosmetics, and "High Tension Basketball Game." There are many shelves of "Open Sesame," which centres on the adventures of tarty young women who strike provocative poses in school girl uniforms and are very hygenic. They bathe frequently, always under the watchful eyes of male suitors. Sometimes, they even assist one another, since bathing is such an arduous task.

Walking home, we pass an arcade. A teenaged boy, overcome by excitement, has passed out on the front step. He's sprawled out, limbs akimbo, his head in the pathway of patrons entering and exiting the facility. Glasses are askew, his mouth is hanging open, and he's absolutely oblivious to the fact that people are gingerly sidestepping his head. Ah, callow youth!

Dinner finds us at a new restaurant just down the street from our apartment. Our group of five includes International Centre Coordinator, Organizer, Fixer, and Chief Babysitter of Needy Foreign Professors, Diane, her husband Jon, and her sister Serin, who goes by the nickname "Sen." A kindergarten English teacher, Sen is a livewire. Like her charges, she's high energy and inquisitive. Her blinged out bright green Snoopy shirt and gold and white rhinestone studded enormous Guess watch say it all. Diane remarks, "She's a girlie-girl," with all the admiration of a sister who is not, and is quite okay with that fact.

Jon tells us his Korean name is Yumok, meaning, "driftwood." He chose this name for himself, saying it suits. He does, indeed, have the vibe of one who can weather storms, and float along comfortably, no matter what life brings. He and Diane are the perfect yin/yang couple.

Jon and Rob engage in lively discussion about motorcycles. Jon has even brought along an item that is to motorcyclists as crack is to methadone addicts: a second hand motorcycle catalogue! The two spin off into their own little world, planning for a motorcycle tour of Korea next summer. Jon has even, generously, volunteered to let Rob use one of his bikes.

Dinner is at a new beef place that makes Japanese style "shabu shabu." Boiling pots of soup are placed on grills in the centre of the tables. Thinly shaved beef is added, and then cooked and eaten with vegetables. When the course is finished, noodles are added to the soup, and when that is done, spiced rice is stirred into the leftover liquid to create a final course.

Though we are stuffed, Diane suggests dessert at the Natuur ice cream shop. We split a "pick five" tub of flavours. I choose green tea, and it's simply the best I've ever had. The entire evening costs us about 85 dollars Canadian, and it's well worth it. Diane has gone out of her way to be all things to all people, and it's important that someone show some appreciation.

We're home by nine and about to get ready for bed when the phone rings. It's Sue, returning our call to go out for coffee. We explain that we're leaving first thing tomorrow. As much as we'd love to get together, we reason that we have many chores to attend to, and decide to stay in. It's a tough decision, as we'd love to see her one last time.

I remember someone once telling me that when you forget something somewhere, or have unfinished business, it's a sign that you want to return. I tell Sue we'll be in touch via email, and will be sure to hook up when we return to Gwangju, hopefully, next year!